Suckfizzle Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Margaret River ($50)

Since we'd had the Pierro 2001 Cab Merlot the previous night this was an interesting comparison - same major grape, same region, and a big reputation. There was cigar box the nose and so I again the has old world thing in my my, however given its relative youth there was more fruit on the palate than the 2001 Pierro. Still a bit of tannin there, though not at such high levels to stop our enjoyment. I'd have been tempted to store this wine had it not been for the fact that my parents had bought it, and were eager to taste what this expensive wine tasted like. And on reflection I'm not sure how much better the wine would have got for the effort. Cheese only slightly dealt with the astringency from the tannin. While a reasonable wine there was consensus that we could not taste $50 worth of wine here. There are more enjoyable cabernets for cheaper.

Pierro, Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2001, Margaret River (circa $60)

Needed well over 1 hour of air before consumption. A powerful nose remiscent of old world wines. Strong aromas of cassis. Excellent length and a complex taste with different flavours popping up left right and centre. You could let this stay in your mouth forever. However, it is not an easy quaffing drink. You need to sit down and think about what you are drinking to get the most out of it

Tuck's Ridge Riesling 1996, Mornington Peninsula ($15)

It isw not often you can buy a 12 year old riesling, let alone for $15, so when I saw a rack of them at the winery I had to buy one (and also a '98). Its age means it has turned a lovely pale orange colour and the flavours intense, highlighting toasted nuts, and a hint a mandarin. The flavours reminded me of one of my Seppelt DP38 fortified wine - they were that strong. At $15 this is great value, but you'd have to think carefully about which food to match against...or drinking by itself. An interesting and worthwhile buy.

Wongston's Top Wines of 2007

Pennyweight Pinot Noir 2005 (Beechworth), $30
Thanks to my friend Anthony for introdcuing me to this. The best pinot I've had all year by a large margin. Gentle and subtle and never overpowering, the bouquet is complex and mushroom influenced. The liquid is gentle, silken and deeply satisfying. Over several bottles I've just found myself just sitting and smelling this wine, it is such a joy. Illustrious wine reviewers such as James Halliday might gravitiate towards the Paringe Estates of the world, but for me, this is kind. the only wines I can think of that were in the same league included an one unusually good Gevry Chambertin that I had in 1993 (the wine that put me onto pinot in the first place), Main Ridge Estate, and one reserve Candlebark Hill pinot that they cannot reproduce.

One month after Anthony introduced me to this wine I was in the winery buying six more. I'll be there at New Year. My custom is assured.

Box Stallion Shiraz (Mornington Peninsula), $35
We only went to Box Stallion because we wanted to go to a winery we'd not been to before. I was not intending to have shiraz at all there, intending to concentrate on the pinots and the more exotic grape varieties (they are trying arneis here, which is unusual for the Mornington Peninsula region). So I was unsuspecting when this shiraz hit me. Full of licorice this wine is perfectly balanced and drinking wonderfully at the moment. Let's face it many a wine at $30 lives on the reputation of teh winery or region and is often forgettable. This one is not. A wonderful wine for a special occassion or with special people. Available from teh cellar door and from the bottle shop on Queen Street in Melbourne CBD.

Sam Miranda Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2004 (King Valley), about $20
Definately my favourite sparkling of the year and ata very good price. This wine had no acidic hard edges whatsoever. Perfect integration of flavours with leads to a gentle, creamy and subtle sparkling wine. This is too good for a chatty afternoon between bored mothers on a school day. One to enjoy as a couple as the late afternoon heat dissapates though an unctuously lazy evening.

Best's Great Western Bin 0 Shiraz 2000 (?) (Grampians)
Came as shock this one as it came on the coat tails of two bottles of Felton Road pinot noir. The Best's outshone the pinot. Had the whole crowd nodding with appreciation.

Those that nearly made it to exalted status

• Box Stallion Pinot Meunier 2006 (Mornington Peninsula), $23
• Chrismont Riesling 2005 (King Valley), $16
• Chrismont Chardonnay 2005 (King Valley), $17

Boccoccio Cellars Cleanskin 'The Master' Durif 2006 ($5 bottle)

Durif never takes any prisoners. This bottle started badly when the tannins practically ripped the top layer off my tongue. Returning to the glass 20 minutes later showed that exposure to air allowed the tannins to settle down considerably revealing a full bodied wine (13.6%) with plum and blackberry within. Reminded me of blackberry picking in my mum and dad's village when I was a kid. The tannins remain, but not to the oppressive levels on first opening the bottle, instead giving some structure to the wine. A few sips in and I was becoming favourably disposed to this. So I pondered my overall view of the wine. By the end of the glass I felt it all comes down to one's stance of durif per se. I've only tasted it done well once (Deen De Bortoli Vat something Durif, $10), and done unsatisfactorarily in my view many times more (John Gehrig wines, and the utter crap I got from Laithwaites in the UK in 2005). I put it in the same bucket as the tannat grape. Dark and unremitting and lacking in finesse. By the end of the glass this my head beginning to thump I figured it was like being a teenager at a teenage party when the only girl you've set your sights on goes with some other guy. You drink anything, too much. Your head is numb and your not enjoying this party at all. Grow up, sonny. Don't do it. Just go home.

Award Winners

International Wine and Spirit Competition (see www.iwsc.net)

Chapel Hill 2004 Shiraz
Chapel Hill 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Brown Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay and Pinor Meunier

Emu Plains 2004, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria ($15)

Made by King's Creek, though they seem not to want to advertise the fact as their name doesn't appear on this secondary label release. By now 2004 pinot from the Mornington Peninsula should be showing some complexity. This does not, though overall there is good fruit balance. When drunk by itself there is a slight excess of acidity so should be drunk with food. For $15 a bottle this is good value for money. Almost all pinot at this price point is a lot worse.