Box Stallion, The Enclosure Pinot Noir 2006, Mornington Peninsula ($25ish)

The thing about pinot noir is that your always want the Holy Grail - the perfect wine - and it is only pinot that can give that religious ectasy. near perfection is tolerable. But what about serviceable? No, not really. This wine is serviceable, red cherry being the main thing going on here on the nose and palate. the winer is correct. But it is pinot and it does not rock.

Domane Wachau, Gruner Veltliner 2007, Wachau, Austria ($23)

This grape is beginning to get a bit of hype what with articles in The Age's Epicure. Jancis Robinson mentioned that one has to be careful where in Austria the wine is sourced from. Today's wine was no help. Balanced and tasting somewhere between semillion and gerwurtztramer is was simply okay but unexceptional with balanced honeysuckle (?) notes and verging on semi-sweet.

Box Stallion, Dolcetto 2004, Mornington Peninsula ($17)

Acquired this at the cellar door. The 2006 which we tasted just beforehand was totally different what with its rosemary bouquet. No English country garden here. Stewed cherry and blackberry on the nose and a fair dose of tannin. Probably at its best after one hour of airing when the dustiness came off it leaving a glossy palate experience. 14.6% alcohol has very high, but I couldn't taste the heat one would expect from such levels. For $17 this is good value.

Chateau Ferriere 2005, Grand Cru Classe, Margaux, Bordeaux ($100)

Be careful when believing adverts offering religious experiences. 2005 Bordeaux - the vintage of a lifetime. Buy any wine you can - they'll all be worth it. No doubt this is a nice wine, but the Douro wines I've recently drunk were as good, and the Vallado had strong parallels in the taste experience at a third of the price. A bit like Sean Connery finding our who Zardoz really was.