Chrismont, Sangiovese 2004, King Valley, ($17)

After the big let down of Chrismont's marzemino 2004 a couple of months ago I wasn't overly optimistic about this one. So it came as a really nice surprise to drink this earthy, woody and fragrant sangiovese. Very different from the other sangiovese's I've had and pleasurably so. Medium to full bodied in an interestingly aged way. Return visit recommended.

Wines of 2008

White Wine of the Year
The Gap, Chardonnay, 2004, Grampians ($17)

Shiraz of The Year
Mount Cole Wineworks, Shiraz 2004, Grampians
McClay Road, Shiraz,, 2005, Beechworth
Winner: Saint Joseph 2006, Cotes de Rhone, France

Pinot Noir of the Year
Winner: Pennon Hill, 2003, Mornington Penisula
Paringa Estate, Estate Pinot Noir, 2003 & 2002, Mornington Peninsula
Red Hill Estate Classic Release, 2003, Mornington Peninsula

Giant Steps Sexton, Harry Monster 2004 (Bordeaux Blend), Yarra Valley ($45)

All tasting of this wine at Giant Steps have been favourable, with great balance, weight and complexity. This was my second tasting of this at home. Admittedly, coming off the back of the sublime Paranga Estate '02 Pinot it was always going to be a gard act to follow. While it did need more air (on hindsight possible 2 hours required) it felt rough after Paringa. Still, a lot going on. Worth $45? Not so sure now. Ashton Hills comes in at $25, and Boat of Craigo at $20 or so possibly represents a better value while trading off an acceptable amount of complexity.

Paringa Estate, Estate Pinot Noir 2002, Mornington Peninsula ($35 at auction)

Wunderbar. Exellent balance and great finish. Possibly slightly shaded by the '03 we drank a few weeks ago, but only by the most marginal of factors. Flavour spanning the whole mouth. Even got plaudits from my non-pinot loving sister. High praise indeed.

Old vs New World Battle of the Shiraz: McClay Rd 2006, Beechworth ($35) v Saint Joseph 2006, Cotes du Rhone, France ($24)

McClay Rd 2005 had to one of my top wines of 2008. The 2006 delivered too with focussed ripe black fruits driving straight down the middle of the palate. Good finish. Lovely stuff. The thing it was dwarfed by the Saint Joseph. I simply didn't know syrah could be like this. It shimmered in delicate light tones that I have simply never ever tasted before in this grape. Silk. Tesco in the UK are now discounting this at AUD12 per bottle. It's distressing that this wine has single-handedly blown every shiraz I've ever had to bits. A privilege to drink.

Paternoster Estate, Premium Pinot Noir 2001, Blue Dandenongs ($45)

Paternoster is couched in the Dandenongs on a steep slope. So I was hoping this was good pinot country - cool winds and lots of sunlight. This wine was quite full bodied by pinot standards with interesting spicy notes. However is was the sultana notes that dominated and simply left one dissatisfied. Maybe the grapes were overripe. A profound disappointment.

Louis Jadot, Combe aux Jacques, Beaujolais Village 2007 ($??)

A lovely wine this, gentle, and not in the lest overbearing. Gentler still than the Pennyweight gamay this was very smooth, balanced, and light. Only a hint of something darker on the mid-palate. Very enjoyable.

Paringa Estate, Peninsula Shiraz 2004, Mornington Peninsula ($21 auction)

A profound disappointment of a wine. One simply expects from a Paranga, and in the end this delviered little to differentiate it from the $10 bottle crowd.

Paringa Estate, Estate Pinot Noir 2003, Mornington Peninsula ($36 at auction)

With a delicate earthy and feintly fungal bouquet this wine delivers a lovely long finish across the entire palate.  A deeply satisfying wine in the medium to heavier bodied category of pinot.  I must admint I preferred the lighter and more mushroomy style that Pennon Hill 2003 or Pennyweight 2005 delivered, but this wine remains excellent drinking at excellent value.  I'd make a detour to be able to drink this again.