Domaine de la Mordoree, Lirac, Southern Rhone ($45)

I'd heard about wines from the Lirac from Wine Libray TV and how they were underated. My attempt at sourcing some in Melbourne had come to nought for a month before going to Paris. The 'Caves Taillerant' had only one bottle so I was amazed to see one advertised in South Melbourne's Prince Wine Stores. This had a feint purple hue, and a minerality on the nose that evokes northern Rhone, though not as extrememly as teh St Jospeph of a few months ago. It stank of regionality. THis could not be anything but French, and special. And indeed it was: mineral, violet, white pepper (?) and subdued black fruit. I loved this . The sheer balnce, the length, the individuality. Very enjoyable. A pure sense of place.