Boccoccio Cellars Cleanskin 'The Master' Durif 2006 ($5 bottle)

Durif never takes any prisoners. This bottle started badly when the tannins practically ripped the top layer off my tongue. Returning to the glass 20 minutes later showed that exposure to air allowed the tannins to settle down considerably revealing a full bodied wine (13.6%) with plum and blackberry within. Reminded me of blackberry picking in my mum and dad's village when I was a kid. The tannins remain, but not to the oppressive levels on first opening the bottle, instead giving some structure to the wine. A few sips in and I was becoming favourably disposed to this. So I pondered my overall view of the wine. By the end of the glass I felt it all comes down to one's stance of durif per se. I've only tasted it done well once (Deen De Bortoli Vat something Durif, $10), and done unsatisfactorarily in my view many times more (John Gehrig wines, and the utter crap I got from Laithwaites in the UK in 2005). I put it in the same bucket as the tannat grape. Dark and unremitting and lacking in finesse. By the end of the glass this my head beginning to thump I figured it was like being a teenager at a teenage party when the only girl you've set your sights on goes with some other guy. You drink anything, too much. Your head is numb and your not enjoying this party at all. Grow up, sonny. Don't do it. Just go home.